Mistress Ariachne's BDSM Workshop: DIY BDSM! Get Cuffed!

In my last article, I gave you a basic introduction to the tools and materials needed for leatherworking. Now it's time for a simple project to get you started working with leather. Here is a set of instructions for making a basic bondage collar and/or cuffs. With this project under your belt, you'll have a good grasp of the basics of leatherworking. While it may seem complicated at first, you'll quickly get the hang of making your own, customized leather pieces.

DESIGNING YOUR CUFFS AND COLLAR

Before you start in on actually making your cuff and collar set, spend some time deciding how you want it to look. Even if the basic design is very simple, you still have a lot of options to customize the style you want. For instance, you can vary the width of the band, the color or type of the leather, the color of the buckles and hardware, the placement of the rings or other hardware, whether or not you want to put studs on, and so on. In addition, decide on the shape of the piece. Will it be all one width, or vary in width? Do you want the end to be rounded, pointed, or square? It might be helpful to sketch out a few designs to help you decide on a final form.

When you have a good idea of what you want, it's time to go shopping for your materials. Remember that if you can't find the color leather you want, you can dye light-colored leather with leather dye.

The only hardware you'll absolutely need is a buckle. Buy a buckle whose interior width matches the width you want the band to be. For bondage buckles or a slave collar, you'll probably want to add rings. You'll need an O or D ring in the size you prefer, as well as two to four rivets to secure the ring to the band. You may also choose to put on multiple rings or add spikes, studs, or other decorations.

CUTTING THE LEATHER

Determine the length and width of the collar or cuff you desire, and mark it on the leather using a yardstick and a pencil. Follow the old construction worker's adage -- "measure twice, cut once." Allow an extra 3-4 inches past the neck measurement in length for a collar, and 2-3 inches past the wrist measurement for a cuff. This extra length will be where you put in the buckle holes.

Follow these steps to cut the leather:

1. Dampen the leather lightly and evenly with a damp sponge or spray bottle full of water before you start to work with it. This will make it easier to manipulate.

2. Lay the leather out on a flat, durable work surface (a plywood square works well and is cheap). If possible, protect the work surface with a rubber mat (available at leather goods stores).

3. Place a straightedge along the line you've marked for cutting. A heavy metal straightedge does the best job of guiding your cutting blade, although in a pinch a yardstick or ruler will do.

4. Begin your cut by drawing the tip of a razor knife or utility knife along the straightedge. Keep the blade pushed against the straightedge. Make sure your knife is perpendicular to the leather. Limit your cutting depth to the depth where you can still control the blade. It may take you several passes to completely cut through the leather.

Be very careful and concentrate on what you are doing in this step. If you try to work too quickly or without full concentration, you may slip and cut yourself (I have first-hand experience in doing this, ow!).

If you are working with suede or thin garment leather, you may find that leather or kitchen shears work better for cutting.

Change your knife blade frequently -- between each project at the very least. Utility knife blades get dull very quickly and are inexpensive and easy to replace.

If you are adding one or multiple rings to the piece, you will need to also measure and cut a smaller leather piece to hold on the ring. Make it big enough to go over the ring and allow for 2 or 4 rivets to hold it in place.

ADDING RIVET HOLES

Once you have cut out the collar, fold one end (the one that is NOT meant for the buckle holes) over on itself, making a crease about one and a half inches from the end. Use a slot punch to make a slot hole in the middle of the crease -- the slot should be perpendicular to the crease and centered. This is where the tongue of the buckle will poke through the leather.

To use a slot or a hole punch for leather, you can either use a punch or awl that you hit with a mallet to drive it through the leather; or you can use a punch that is basically built like a heavy-duty paper hole punch and that punches through with a similar squeezing grip.

Next, you will make the holes for the rivet(s) that will hold on the buckle. You can choose from one to four (or more) rivets to hold the buckle on -- depending on the width of the leather, the size of the rivets, and how secure you need the attachment to be. Use a leather punch whose hole matches the diameter of your rivets. The holes, if they are multiple, should be spaced evenly. They should be at least a quarter inch from the crease and from the sides of the band.

Fold the band over again and mark on the back side of the leather where the rivet holes come through on the front piece. Punch these holes. Both sets of holes should line up evenly.

Follow the directions above to make matching rivet holes in the piece of leather that will hold on the O or D ring and the band underneath.

FINAL LEATHER FINISHING

Before you actually apply any of the metal hardware, you'll want to finish and/or embellish the leather. If you like, use a beveling knife to trim and bevel the edges of the piece. Apply any leather stamping or tooling if desired. This is also the point at which you will apply leather dye, if you wish. Allow the leather to dry completely after dyeing. Then rub saddle soap along the collar or cuff to remove excess dye, and finish by rubbing with a soft cloth to remove excess soap.

APPLYING THE HARDWARE

The next step is to attach the metal hardware. Begin by inserting the buckle prong through the slot you've punched in the crease. Make sure the buckle is correctly positioned. Then fold the band over and apply the rivets in their respective holes. In most cases, you will insert the rivets from the back of the band, using a mallet to put the rivet caps on the front of the rivets.

Repeat this rivet-setting process if you have O- or D- rings to fasten on.

MAKING THE BUCKLE HOLES

The last step is to create the holes that the buckle will go through to fasten the cuff or collar. Wrap the collar or cuff around the neck or wrist that it will be worn on, marking a hole position that will result in a comfortable fit. Then mark a series of holes out from either side of this position, at anywhere from one half to one full inch apart. Don't make too many or you will have a collar that is mostly holes!

Punch these holes with a leather punch whose diameter is at least that of the buckle tongue (these will be much smaller than the rivet holes).

Voila! You now have a custom collar or cuff that you've designed and created from scratch. Once you've made a few of these, you will find that it is easy to try new and more complicated leather projects.