Mistress Ariachne's BDSM Workshop: Singletail Construction and Buying Tips

Perhaps you've seen -- or heard -- the sinuous arc of a singletail whip and the loud crack it makes. Some players relish the challenge of mastering the singletail -- and it makes for dramatic scenes. Choosing a singletail can be difficult, especially because they represent a significant investment. Let's explore how a singletail is constructed and how to choose a good one.

DEFINING A SINGLETAIL

There are no rigid definitions for what comprises a singletail whip. Clearly, it is distinguishable from a flogger in that it has only one "tail" or fall. But beyond that, it can be hard to clearly define what you mean by "singletail."

In most instances in the BDSM community, a singletail whip is a tightly braided leather whip that can be cracked. Think the whip that Indy uses in the Indiana Jones movies -- albeit a bit smaller. It is also called a signal whip. Lengths vary, with the most popular sizes being in the 3 to 4 foot range. You can buy smaller whips, but they become harder to crack as you can't get the momentum that larger whips afford. Larger whips are usually termed bullwhips, which can range in length from 8 to 12 feet. Bullwhips are less popular in BDSM play, as they are difficult to use in indoor playspaces.

SINGLETAIL CONSTRUCTION

The typical singletail has a number of parts to it. It is usually constructed of kangaroo or cowhide, braided tightly to form a continuous taper. Signal whips have no distinct handle, and can be coiled up like a snake. Bullwhips usually have a rigid handle.

At the end of the whip, you will usually find a small bit of leather, fabric or string. This is called the cracker or popper because it is partly responsible for the crack or pop that a whip makes when properly thrown. This loud crack results from the tip breaking the speed of sound -- in effect creating a mini sonic boom. The whip's long, tapered design allows the energy that is imparted to the wider handle to gather quite a bit of momentum and force by the time it reaches the end of the whip, which is usually just a single strand of leather or fabric. The tip of the whip can move at over 700 miles an hour!

Most whips in use in BDSM have long thong or fabric cord between the body of the whip and cracker -- this is called a fall. Technically, a signal whip is one in which the cracker is braided directly into the whip body, without a fall; a similar whip that has a fall is actually called a snake whip. Bullwhips have falls as well.

The interior of a whip is called its belly, and can be made out of leather, nylon, or other materials as well as lead shot to add weight. Although you can't see it, the belly is the most important part of the whip. If you're investing a lot of money in a whip, make sure you know what is inside it. Some whips simply have strips of leather inside them; higher-quality ones will have a design that is called a double-plaited belly, which means they have a plaited (braided) leather core, covered by a thin leather overlay, covered by yet another plaited layer, another overlay, and the final plaited covering. This makes for an exceptionally smooth taper, higher density to the whip, and an increase in the whip's ability to resist wear and tear. However, if you are just starting out, it's not an absolute must to purchase a whip with a double-plaited belly.

The outside of a whip -- the part you see -- is made up of thin strips of leather braided in an intricate pattern. The number of strands in the braid ("plait") can vary. Most whips use a four-seam plait, which means the number of strands will be a multiple of four -- 4, 8, 12, 16, etc. Higher-quality whips usually have more strands to their plait. The plait can be multi-colored, which is a nice way to customize your whip if you are having it made. All-black is usually available in premade whips.

BUYING TIPS

It can be somewhat difficult to choose a whip relying only on online sources -- but in the end, unless you have a master whipmaker in your area, you may have the best luck making your final purchase online. Before you do, I recommend you take your time and do as much research as possible.

If you have a tack/saddle shop nearby, they will often carry bullwhips and other kinds of whips. Go there and check them out to get a feel for the length, stiffness and weight that you might want. Some fetish shops will carry them as well. If some players in your area have singletails, ask if they would show you their whips and give you some buying and using advice.

Be warned that a high quality singletail whip will be expensive. The cheapest leather whip that will suit your needs will probably be at least $100 US if not more. A good whip will be at least $200, whereas a great whip will be more like $300-$500. You may sometimes find singletails available second-hand via your local fetish scene players. Another good option, if you are just starting out, is to use a nylon singletail. The Bullwhip Info folks (see link below) make a nylon singletail that is constructed just like a high-quality leather whip, starting at only $100.

Here are some things to look for in whip construction:

- A high plait number. Anything below 12 is usually inferior.

- A plaited belly or interior

- A tight weave on the braided exterior -- the whip should feel relatively smooth as you run your hand down it, with the leather strips of the braid laying flat and flush with each other

- Good weight and balance -- cheap whips are usually too light to throw properly

- Even distribution of weight and diameter from the handle end down through the fall. The fall should not be wider than the end of the braid.

Whip connoisseurs tend to agree -- the most important characteristic of a whip is how much "life" it has. A "livelier" whip is more responsive to your movements; it is more supple and its even distribution of density and weight makes it more accurate and easier to crack. All aspects of a whip's construction contribute to its degree of liveliness.

So what if you can't handle a whip before you purchase it? Or what if you only have a tack shop nearby and they can't tell you anything about the whips they carry (like whether they have a plaited core, etc.)? The best route is to order from a reputable whip craftsperson online.

When shopping online, do your research. Sift through non-whipmaker, resource-oriented sites to find any reviews or recommendations from people who have actually bought the whips. If you have questions about the whips, email or call the whipmaker. They are usually more than happy to help you learn about their merchandise. They all know that a good whip is a big investment, and (unless they are a huckster) will be glad to spend as much time as you need answering your questions.